The Confusing World of BB creams

So many people have asked me what BB creams are and the differences between them- so I decided to make a ridiculously long blog post on it! Strap yourselves to the computer because this will be a long one! Feel free to skip the historical parts and just read what would work for your specific skin type. I am a history freak so I will secretly judge you if you openly admit you didn’t read it. Just kidding.

History– it is widely thought that BB creams originated from Korea, but in reality it was developed in Germany (like most awesome things. Like me) in the 1960’s by the German dermatologist, Dr Schrammek

Originally meant for women wanting coverage to help with redness and sensitivity after surgeries, ‘Blemish Balms’ combined high SPF, primer, moisture, calming properties and a little color.

It wasn’t until years later that the ‘Blemish Balm’ became incredibly popular in Korea, then across all of Asia. Typically there was only one shade, at most two. Since porcelain fair skin was most desirable, whitening agents were added to the creams, helping lighten skin and fade general darkening. Because of the added primer, ‘BB’ creams were more mattefying than common Tinted Moisturizers (they are exactly what they sound like- foundation mixed with face Moisturizer) and increased their popularity.

Once ‘BB’ hit the Western Market once again, they were known as Beauty Balms and quickly adapted to fit the market here. Many lost their whitening aspect because instead of fair skin the tan reign supreme here. Some ‘BB’ creams even have added pigment to make them more bronzy!

Fun Fact: A form of the Original ‘Blemish Balm’ is still available from Dr Schrammek’s site www.schrammek.com!

Alright, long history rant aside- what exactly is a ‘BB’ cream then?

I like to say they are Tinted Moisturizers on Steroids;

Beauty Balms can be used on their own, or under foundation as a primer and for a boost of coverage.

Short breakdown: Moisturizer + Primer + Color + Skin Care Benefits (really depends on the brand and their particular focus)

 

M: The moisturizer helps keep the skin hydrated (especially here in Colorado where the air literally sucks the entire moisture out of our cells) However this does NOT replace moisturizer, see it more as a ‘boost’.

P: Primer helps makeup stay on the skin longer (think magnet to the face), smooth out skin texture as well as keep shine down and control oil

C: Obviously this gives the coverage- normally ‘BB’ creams are very sheer, only helping even skin rather than actually cover like a traditional foundation. Western ‘BB’’s are much thicker than the Korean versions, often giving higher coverage than only sheer.

B: These benefits are countless- Many are anti-aging, some are calming or acne clearing- each brand has its own marketing game and it can be hard to decide what is real and what is a gimmick.

 

How to choose: There are so many different brands, and within brands even different types of similar products, so here is a little guidance while you shop:

 

For Dry Skin

Too Faced BB 

Finish: This BB cream is incredibly luminizing! It has a beautiful glowing finish, not oily or overly glittery (though there is Mica in it, so there is a slight shimmer). Great if you want a little more glow. The company claims with one is mattyfing- but believe me us oily girls want to stay away. But combo to dry will love this! This one claims anti-aging benefits and firming of elasticity.

Coverage: Sheer

SPF: 20, physical with titanium Dioxide and Zinc Oxide

Scent: light citrus, light sunscreen

Shade Range: 5 shades

Oil Free: Yes

 

YSL Top Secrets All in one BB cream

Finish: Softly luminescent, this product hydrates beautifully while Vitamin C brightens skin over time and Rose de Mai extract works on softening skin. This product works well as a primer as it has very little color but would give a beautiful glow under a foundation, or for a skin treatment with a fresh glow wear on its own.

Coverage: very Sheer

SPF: 25, Chemical with Octinoxate

Scent: Typical to YSL complexion products, this as a soft almost floral scent. Clean and Soapy smelling.

Shade Range: Clear, Medium, and Dark

Oil Free: No

 

For Oily / Combination Skin

 

Tarte BB tinted Treatment 12-Hour Primer

Finish: Natural. This balm feels much mousier than the others which gives it a luminous matte look (yes I know that makes no sense.) It uses a combination of diamond dust, plants and lipoamino acids to diminish the appearance of fine lines, wrinkles and pores. It claims to diminish the size of pores in 4 weeks. I love the mousey consistency of this one, and feel it gives a softer, more velvety texture to my skin than the others; but beware, it looks velvety verses like pure skin and feels much more siliconey, making it not as lightweight as the more sheer ones. It is natural but some may find it to be more visible than the more liquidy consistencies. This one tends to attach to dry skin so I recommend it more for normal to oily. I still need to powder this one, but that is because I am an oil slick like no other- Seriously, you can see your reflection in my forehead most days. Salad dressing could be made on my face. Wait. Gross. I am going to stop talking. I love Tarte in general- it is a Paraben and Cruelty free brand that gives good quality products.

Coverage: Sheer to Medium buildable

SPF: 30, Physical with Titanium Dioxide and Zinc Oxide

Scent: Unscented but a slight Sunscreen Scent.

Shade Range: 5 shades

Oil Free: Yes

 

Smashbox Camera Ready BB Cream

Finish: Natural. This Balm rubes in nicely and sets quickly. This Balm uses emollients and optical pearl pigments to give a beautiful naturally radiant complexion. It is designed to help with oil production allowing it to keep skin oil free without a matte look making it sutable for oily skin even though it hydrates throughout the day. I personally found this to still get oily on me, however I already explained that in the Tarte review. No need to readdress. Anyway, a light powder helps if you are extremely oily. Besides that, anyone from dry to oily can wear this one.

Coverage: Sheer to Medium buildable

SPF: 35, Chemical and Physical with Octinoxate, Octisalte, Oxybenzone, and Titanium Dioxide

Scent: Has a slight sunscreen scent

Shade Range: 8 shades

Oil Free: Yes

 

CoverFX BB Gel

Finish: Natural to slightly matte. This is my personal favorite BB. It is much more light weight due to being a gel and seems to keep me matte longer than other creams and foundations. I do still get oily and need to powder as well as touch up throughout the day (but when do I not.) It does have Salicylic Acid, which I partially like because of how it keeps my skin clear (awesome for those with acne) but it can be too drying if I use to too much. It does have soothing ingredients to help moisturize and take down redness, but I do not recommend it unless you truly are oily! It is also Paraben Free and Vegan!

Coverage: Light to Medium

SPF: None

Scent: Pretty much unscented

Shade Range: 10 colors between Pink, Neutral and Gold undertones!

Oil Free: Yes

 

For Normal

 

Urban Decay Naked Skin Beauty Balm

Finish: This one melts down to a ‘demi-matte’ finish. It feels slightly more siliconey than ones like Too Faced or Smashbox. This fills in pores, fine lines and wrinkles (the siliconey feeling definitely helps with that) claims to rebuild DNA and to firm skin instantly as well as improve elasticity in just 8 weeks. This BB is closer to the original creams that truly have skincare benefits. It moisturizes well however the matte finish does not stick- this works anywhere from dry to combo skin but not my favorite for oily- unless used merely as a primer. There is also a Bronzing and Illuminating version of this one.

Coverage: very sheer

Scent: light, almost minty

SPF: Chemical and Physical, with Octinoxate and Zinc Oxide

Shade Range: Light, Medium and Dark

Oil Free: Yes

 

Stila Stay all Day 10-in-One HD Beauty Balm

Finish: Natural to slightly luminous. This Balm feels slightly thicker than other creams but feels soft and velvety once rubbed in. The balm claims to have micro-spheres which reduce the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles by 84%. It also says it contains something called skin-protecting emollients that increase antioxidant activity by 89.7% that also helps sooth inflammation, boost collagen production and improve skin texture. This balm works for all skintypes, but I find it a little heavy for oily skin. Bonus: Its Paraben Free!

Coverage: Sheer

SPF: 30, Chemical and Physical with Octinoxate and Zinc Oxide

Scent: faintly fruity in my opinion

Shade Range: One

Oil Free: Yes

 

`

Concluding Thoughts: BB Creams claim to be a ‘One-Stop-Shop’ but I think they involve more work than that for the common person. In my opinion they do not replace everything in your beauty regime- Think of the moisture part as an added bonus, not a replacement for your daily moisturizer. Plus, I still like to wear a primer under my BB, but perhaps just because I am an obsessive addict and hate only putting a few things on my face…

 

They are great if you just want sheer, light or medium coverage, however if you have oily skin you may not be able to rely on the oil-control promised and may have to add powder

 

 

Side Note: BEWARE. some BB creams are just Tinted Moisturizers disguised in fancy Marketing.